Rhododendron State Park
July 17, 2019 by New Hampshire Garden Solutions

It takes about a half hour to get there from my house but the trip to Rhododendron State Park in Fitzwilliam, New Hampshire is always worth the effort at this time of year. It’s out in the middle of nowhere and is one of those places that approaches what true wilderness must have looked like before European settlers arrived. It is a botanical park; the only one of its kind in the state. People from all over the world come here to see the native rhododendrons (Rhododendron maxima) that grow here. The park contains the largest grove of these rhododendrons known to exist in New England. Common in south eastern states, they have reached the northernmost point of their growth here. Rhododendron state park was even designated a national Landmark in 1982.

This native rhododendron isn’t like others; it blooms in mid-July rather than in spring. The land that they grow on is low and often quite wet and I think that’s why they have been left alone since Captain Samuel Patch settled here in 1788. The higher surrounding land was farmed but not where the rhodies grew. In 1901 a subsequent owner almost had the land logged off for timber but instead it was bought and given to the Appalachian Mountain Club with the stipulation that it be protected and open to the public forever after.

The National Park Service calls them pink, but I see white when I look at the blossoms and though most of these plants are quite tall it is still easy to get close to them. Though the plants are much bigger than your average rhododendron the flowers and flower clusters are pretty much the same size as those found on other rhododendrons.

I did see lots of pinks and purples on some of the buds, and on the backs of some of the blossoms.

Included in the park is the center chimney cape that Captain Samuel Patch built with his son sometime before he died in 1817. Captain Patch served in the Revolutionary war and took part in the battle of Bunker Hill and, though his house has changed hands a few times since being built, it looks to be true to its original footprint. Surrounding it are a few garden beds containing various plants, including this moth mullein. Moth mullein (Verbascum blattaria) gets its common name from the way the flowers’ stamens resembled moth antennae to the person who named it. This plant was introduced from Europe and found in Pennsylvania in 1818 and immediately escaped gardens to become a roadside weed now found in every state except Wyoming and Alaska. It isn’t very common in this area however. I only know of two plants and they grow right here at the old Patch place. Its flowers can also be white.

If you visit the park be prepared to be surprised. I remember being shocked at the size of the rhododendrons the first time I came. People are interested; the parking lot was full of cars on this day. I saw many children on the trails too, and since getting children on the trails is one of the main things this blog is about, I was very happy to see them.

The big plants tower overhead in places and in a good year the white blossoms are everywhere you look. Anyone who loves rhododendrons or serious collectors of the shrubs should definitely see this.

Of course, rhododendrons aren’t all there is to see. There is a wildflower trail here as well and I saw many plants here that I had never seen before the first few times I came. Wildflowers bloom throughout the 2,723-acre park from early April into October. False Solomon seal plants (Maianthemum racemosum or Smilacina racemosa) like the one in this photo are through blooming but they have plenty of fruit at this time of year. They can reach three feet tall where they’re happy.

The berries of false Solomon’s seal turn from green to red and for a short time they are speckled with both colors. I’ve read that soil pH can affect the fruit color, but I think that means a deeper or lighter red. Native American’s used all parts of this plant including its roots, which contain lye and must be boiled and rinsed several times before they can be used. Birds, mice, grouse, and other forest critters eat the ripe berries that grow at the end of the stem. They are said to taste like molasses and another common name for the plant is treacle berry.

Shinleaf (Pyrola elliptica,) is one of our native wintergreens. It get its common name from the way Native Americans used it as a poultice to heal wounds; especially shin wounds, apparently. Like several other wintergreens it contains compounds similar to those in aspirin and a tea made from it was used for many of the same ailments. Its nodding white, waxy flowers are fragrant and usually appear near the end of June. I find them in sandy soil in forests under pines.

I saw the fruiting bodies of a coral slime mold (Ceratiomyxa fruticulosa, V. porioides.) These objects that resemble geodesic domes are so small that I can’t see any of the detail until I zoom in on them with a camera. They are very fragile; a single swipe of a finger can destroy hundreds of them. According to my mushroom books this slime mold is “very common and fruits in scattered clusters on well-rotted logs.” That’s exactly where these grew.

Also known as rosebay and great laurel, these rhododendrons normally reach a maximum height of 15 feet but may become “tree like.” In the park their branches intertwine as they grow and for the most part you wouldn’t ever get through the thicket they’ve formed.

You may feel a bit small as you wander through and under these giant plants. Visitors might find that the common landscape shrubs they are used to seeing never seem the same again.

A 0.6 mile-long, wheelchair accessible trail meanders around and through the grove and allows visitors close up access to these beauties. This is a good viewing spot, and popular; I had a hard time getting a photo of it with no people on it.

This is one of the views from the bridge in the previous photo. Rhododendrons as far as the eye can see.

There are also Mountain Laurels here but they bloom as much as a month earlier than the rhododendrons.

A hoverfly worked over a dewberry blossom and didn’t seem to mind me watching.

Other insects went unseen but their pathways told their stories. The thought of an insect so small that in can eat its way between the upper and lower surface of a leaf boggles my mind, but I see leaf miner trails everywhere I go.

Rhododendron State Park is open all year during the daytime but isn’t maintained in winter. During the summer months from May through October, you may find a State Park Ranger at the park. He or she is there to answer questions and to collect the $4.00 per visitor admission fee. When there isn’t a ranger on duty you can find the collection box shown above near the trailhead. Part of the money collected I assume is used for trail maintenance, so it’s important. I saw several trees that had fallen across the trail and had been cut up. Children and seniors are admitted for free. Pets are not permitted on the wild flower trail or other nature trails, but I think they can still be taken to other parts of the park. Just follow the instructions on the many signs and maps found throughout the park. The best time to see these spectacular rhododendrons in full bloom is mid-July.

On my way hone I stopped in the town of Troy to admire one of my favorite views of Mount Monadnock. I’m sure there were plenty of sightseers over there too; it is said to be the second most climbed mountain, after Mount Fuji in Japan.
I felt like lying down by the side of the trail and remembering it all. The woods do that to you, they always look familiar, long lost, like the face of a long-dead relative, like an old dream, like a piece of forgotten song drifting across the water, most of all like golden eternities of past childhood or past manhood and all the living and the dying and the heartbreak that went on a million years ago and the clouds as they pass overhead seem to testify (by their own lonesome familiarity) to this feeling.
~Jack Kerouac
Thanks for coming by.
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Posted in Nature, Wildflowers | Tagged Canon EOS Rebel T6, False Solomon's Seal Fruit, Fitzwilliam New Hampshire, Moth Mullein, Native Plants, Nature, New Hampshire, NH, Olympus Stylus TG-870, Rhododendron Maxima, Rhododendron State Park, Shinleaf, Summer Wildflowers, Troy New Hampshire, White Coral Slime Mold | 30 Comments
Great post. Love rhodos . Have only seen such huge ones in Ireland and BC.
Thank you Cynthia. These ones are closer to you, I think.
I had no idea rhododendrons were native to New Hampshire. They are beautiful.
What a fantastic park! I love to see plants in their native places and these all look so healthy and well-cared for. Such bonny flowers!
Thanks you Clare. They are beautiful enough to attract people from all over the world but they really aren’t cared for by anyone. Only nature!
Beautiful park and gorgeous flowers! That’s another place I would love to visit.
Thanks Montucky! I think you’d like it there!
I have visited the park in past, think it’s time for a re-visit! I totally agree with Jack Kerouac’s thoughts as quoted. I appreciate your blog, it’s a bright spot in my week!
Thanks very much Sophie, I’m happy to hear that you enjoy it!
This goes into ‘you learn something every day’ class of posts as I have hitherto thought of rhododendrons as solely coming from the Himalaya region.
Thank you, I always thought they were from somewhere else as well but I’ve read that they grow naturally all over the world.
I’m glad to read this post. I once stopped during what I thought would be the bloom time, but it was super buggy and it didn’t look like anything was blooming, so I never ventured very far. Now I know when to go. But I assume one must still be prepared for mosquitoes in those deep woods?
Thanks very much Pat. Yes, there are a few mosquitoes and other insects but I usually use bug spray so they weren’t biting me!
I’m guessing that you’d probably love to see these giants in bloom.
Wonderful post! I am planning on visiting the park next year. Sounds like July is the time to go.
Thank you Jennifer. Yes, mid July is best. The rhododendrons do have an occasional “off year” but they’re usually loaded with blooms.
Looks like you had a great day. If you ever visit England’s Lake District don’t miss Stagshaw Gardens. (https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g186319-d10552011-Reviews-Stagshaw_Garden-Ambleside_Lake_District_Cumbria_England.html) Let me know and we’ll meet up. 🙂
Thank you Ben, there sure are some beautiful flowers there!
You never know, I might get over there one day. It is where my family originally came from, after all.
🙂
This is one of our favorite strolls. There are also some nice easy trails recently cleared off Old Troy Road which pass some old cellar holes. The trail up Little Monadnock also passes through the park.
Thanks very much Bob. I knew about the Little Monadnock trail but I didn’t know about the ones off the Old Troy Road. I’ll have to check them out!
I’m a great fan of your blog and always enjoy your wide-ranging interests and observations, not to mention your wonderful photography. I should tell you that more often. I also want to let you know that the proper name of the Rosebay Rhododendron is Rhododendron maximum, not maxima. Rhododendron is a neuter Greek noun and all its species adjectives must match it, like Rhododendron viscosum, our Swamp Azalea. Maybe pedantic but as a long time member of the Mass. Chapter of the American Rhododendron Society I appreciate this. (Don’t get me started on people who say rhododendrum!) I took the liberty posting your blog on the Mass. Chapter Facebook page as I know our members will enjoy it and maybe you will get some new readers. Keep up the lovely work. SC
>
Thank you for being a fan and for the correction. I don’t remember where I got “Maxima” but I wonder if the spell checker had something to do with it years ago.
I had to laugh; I’ve known some very intelligent people who have pronounced the name “rhododendrum.”
Thanks very much for the Facebook post as well. I have indeed seen a few new readers this time around.
Thank you for this gorgeous post. I always look forward to your reverent observations.
I was so happy to learn of this preserve! Here in CT, in the Pachaug state forest, lives an Atlantic Cedar Swamp…and in its midst, The Rhododendron Sanctuary. It has the same Jurassic affect you describe in your post. I always think they will bloom earlier than they do, so i go in the end of June. The flowers are still tight in the bud. I went back on July 10 and was treated to such beautiful unfolding of blossoms. Some flowers were still tightly closed, some fully open, and spectacular phase in between. The Cedars tower in the canopy, and the sphagnum moss and gargantuan cinnamon ferns fill the understory…a dinosaur would not be out of placeThere is never anybody else there, unless I bring them with me! There is a short half mile boardwalk through the sanctuary and Cedar Swamp… It is truly a gift to be with this old growth. Like your quote by Jack Kerouac, I also want to lay down and sleep there with my long-lost relatives. Maybe sometime you will visit! It’s in Voluntown, CT.
If I could post a pic or two, I would… But I don’t think I can here.
All his made beautiful,
Sonya
Thanks very much. We also have a cedar swamp here and it’s great but I don’t think and rhododendrons grow in it.
Yours sounds great. I’m glad you got to see these big rhodies in bloom! I might see it one day, next time I get down to Connecticut.
If you’d like you can send me a message through the “contact me” page and then I will email you back and from that point on you’ll be able to email me photos as you normally would.
Well, there’s surprise. Many years ago we owned a house with a half dozen huge July blooming white rhododendrons growing under some very large oakt. They prospered and bloomed regardless of what the weather threw at them. The house was almost 100 years old at that point and the grandson of the couple who built the house said they were called “Ironclads” for their durability and had been there as long as the house. A nurseryman said they were natives. I assumed they were natives of points further south, but today I learned they are really natives of where they grew. Great plants. Thank you again.
You’re welcome. I’m just glad you were able to see them up close and personal. It must have been great having them right in your own yard!
Really neat! Thanks.
On Wed, Jul 17, 2019, 4:13 AM New Hampshire Garden Solutions New Hampshire Garden Solutions posted: ” It takes about a half hour to get > there from my house but the trip to Rhododendron State Park in Fitzwilliam, > New Hampshire is always worth the effort at this time of year. It’s out in > the middle of nowhere and is one of those places that approaches wha” >
You’re welcome Ron!
Thanks for the tour, as always I wish I lived nearby so that I could visit in person!
Thank you Susan, I wish you could too!