History says that Mount Caesar in Swanzey was named after Caesar Freeman, a freed black slave and one of the original settlers in the area. It is said that he lived with the Carpenter family, which is still a well-known name in the town today. I haven’t climbed here since last year, so I thought I’d give it a go over Labor Day weekend.
Mount Caesar seems to be a huge granite monolith. Here and there on the trail you can see where the soil has washed away from the bedrock. At the bottom where the trail starts large areas of reindeer lichens grow on a thin film of soil that covers the granite.
Last year, on the other side of a stone wall from the reindeer lichens in the previous photo, large areas of forest were clear cut. This means that the reindeer lichens, pink lady’s slippers, mosses, ferns, and many other shade loving plants now get full afternoon sun. I wonder how long they’ll be able to stand it.
On the other hand, many sun loving annual plants like forked blue curls, slender gerardia, and different lobelia varieties have moved in to colonize the now sunny clear cut area. The forked blue curl blossom (Trichostema dichotomum) pictured had its anthers completely curled up and tucked under, which is something I’ve never seen them do. There are hundreds of these little plants here now.
More sunlight isn’t the only change; the loss of such large areas of forest also means that there is now nothing to slow the wind, and several trees in the remaining forest next to the clear cut have been blown down.
Large log skidders dragging trees down the trail have turned it into road full of rocks and roots. This might not seem like a big deal unless you understand that this trail was probably made by Native Americans and was most likely almost invisible to settlers. Compared to what it once might have been it is now a super highway.
Yellow spindle coral mushrooms (Clavulinopsis fusiformis) seem to like growing in soil that has been well packed down, and there is plenty of that along this trail. This group was less than an inch tall. They looked like tiny yellow flames coming out of the earth.
I haven’t been able to identify these pretty mushrooms that I found lying beside the trail and I’m not sure that I’ve ever seen them before. Someone must have picked them to get a closer look.
If you compare the natural lay of the land to the trail surface you can see how much the trail has been eroded-as much as two feet of depth in some places. Parts of it are always wet and muddy but when it rains there is little to stop the entire trail from becoming a stream, so it erodes even more.
In spite of all the obstacles you finally make it to the summit and as always, find that it was worth the effort. This was a beautiful blue sky, white puffy cloud kind of day and I wondered as I sat here, why wouldn’t Native Americans have climbed to this spot to enjoy the view just as we do? It is said that they used Mount Caesar as a lookout but I think that they came here just to sit and gaze too, just like I do.
This mountain and the surrounding lands were extremely valuable to the Native American tribe called Squakheag who lived here and they were willing to fight to the death for them. In April of 1747 they burned the town of Swanzey to the ground. The settlers, fearing the rapidly expanding numbers of natives in the area had all left for Massachusetts, but of course they eventually returned and defeated the natives. Sadly, that seems to have marked the end of any real native presence here. It’s hard not to wonder how much richer our lives would be if we had learned to coexist. The loss of thousands of years of first-hand knowledge of plants, animals, and all of nature is such a shame.
You couldn’t have asked for a better day to be sitting on top of a mountain contemplating the view and pondering a little colonial history, so I was surprised to find that I had the whole place to myself. The hardest part of climbing for me is leaving such beauty behind and going back down. There really isn’t any other experience I can think of that can compare to sitting on a mountain top.
It is said that on Mount Caesar and on the summits of several other hills in the area, there are arrows carved into the granite that all point to Mount Monadnock, which is pictured here. Unfortunately every time I climb up here I forget to look for it but anyhow, there’s no missing Monadnock. At 3, 165 feet it is taller than any other feature in the region.
Lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) were already showing their fall colors on the summit.
If you’re reading this and think you might like to climb Mount Caesar I would bring a flashlight if it’s going to be a late afternoon trip. There are sheer cliffs here, so this isn’t the place to be wandering around in the dark.
Besides the view one of the things that draws me up here are the toad skin lichens (Lasallia papulosa) that live on the summit, because this is the only place I know of to find them. They grow on stone and are very warty, and they really do look like toad skin. The black dots are their fruiting bodies (apothecia.)
To those who have struggled with them, the mountains reveal beauties that they will not disclose to those who make no effort. That is the reward the mountains give to effort. And it is because they have so much to give and give it so lavishly to those who will wrestle with them that men love the mountains and go back to them again and again. The mountains reserve their choice gifts for those who stand upon their summits. ~Sir Francis Younghusband.
Thanks for stopping in.
Very interesting and informative post, as always! I sure liked the quote at the end.
Thanks Montucky. I’m sure you know the truth in that quote as well as anybody.
I envy you your mountains. You have to drive a long ways from here to find anything comparable. Sad about the clear cutting and erosion. You would have expected to find more enlightened practices by now.
I don’t think much will change until greed stops being the driving force in decision making. Being on a mountaintop would be worth a long drive. There’s really nothing comparable to it.
Thank you for showing us such a wonderful bit of New Hampshire and stopping to share a little of your history.
You’re welcome Charlie. Thanks for stopping in.
Oh my! The mountains sue reserve their choice gifts for you.
Anyone can get the same gifts if they’re willing to do some huffing and puffing!
Beautiful area Allen but I hate to see logging roads and the terrible mess they make from logging without caring. I am like you and love to be outside on the trails loving nature!
Me too Mike-they really did make a huge mess here and didn’t seem to really give a thought as to how it would impact people who hiked here. Last year the mud was almost knee deep.
Ah, mountains are such interesting places.
And you find out the most interesting things, and plants – not to mention mushrooms that I’ve never seen elsewhere..
Thank you Cynthia. I agree, there’s no other place quite like a mountain top!
It looks like it was worth the climb. Interesting to think what it might have been like of the settlers and the native Americans could have lived side by side.
I think it would have been great. The Natives had a real Eden here. Not to mention having a forest full of plants that would cure just about any ailment. The plants haven’t changed but the knowledge of how to use them is gone.
Thanks so much for educating me on Mount Caesar. The story of the Swanzy settlers leaving for Massachusetts after the fire of 1747 was particularly striking to me as that was, perhaps, the last time anyone voluntarily left New Hampshire for Massachusetts! Lol.
Your photos capture nature’s grandeur and oddities. For instance, the uprooted tree with the now exposed roots. With all those tall trees around it, it’s fascinating that the branch-less tree that’s been cut by the lumberjacks, hardly more than a tall stump, would be the one to topple in a storm. Nature sure is unpredictable.
I know what you mean Sven. You don’t ever hear about waves of people leaving here for Massachusetts. Everything is so much more expensive there!
That tree was cut after it blew down, but you had to duck under it for months before it was finally cut.
I once stayed the night at a house which was oppressively full of artefacts that Younghusband had brought back from his travels. He was a busy man. By coincidence we were talking about it today.
I hadn’t ever heard of him until I found that quotation. I looked him up and wasn’t too happy about his slaughtering Tibetans, but since he did interest a lot of people in nature and climbing I decided to keep the quote.
He was typical of his time.
Oh Alan! What a wonderful climb! and the views are sublime. There seems to be a plant/lichen/fungus/tree for every situation. The plants know what they like and need and settle down quite nicely and then we humans come along and mess things up. Fortunately the plants can cope with most of what we throw at them – either waiting as seeds or spores for the right moment maybe decades hence or they adapt to the new situation. We could learn a lot from them! It is shameful the way all indigenous peoples were and are treated. They’re like the plants and should be treasured and protected.
Thank you Clare. I don’t have any doubt that the forest will recover and the plants will be fine, but it won’t happen at this spot in my lifetime.
I think we learned the lesson far too late when it comes to native peoples everywhere.
Yes, I agree. It gets harder to accept and/or tolerate change, especially change for the worse, the older we get. Also,when people and organisations are careless and destructive when, with a little foresight and planning, they could have got what they wanted and preserved the beautiful and valuable, we are almost heart-broken.
I don’t mind change but as usual there’s a story behind the story. This was town owned property and the town government sold off the forest for a pittance without putting it to a vote. That’s not the way things are supposed to work here. What most people who use these trails are upset about though, is that the town didn’t really even need the money, so it seems like it was all just a waste.
How disappointing and shocking! There’s always someone grubbing for money at the bottom of these things isn’t there?
Yes, unfortunately plain old greed is still a strong motivator.
Reblogged this on Dawn of Divine Rays.
Beautiful, Allen…I remember visiting here with you last year…wonderful trip.
Thanks Scott! Yes, it’s summer re-run time.
What they leave behind after logging an area sure is ugly. But, I tell myself that it’s still better than seeing a burned out forest after a fire, and, if it wasn’t for cleared areas, there’d be less diversity of both plants and animals.
It’s also a shame that humans can never get past petty hate and learn to live together in peace. You’re right about the knowledge lost when the Europeans wiped out the native Americans.
I’d love to have a mountain to sit on top of for the views, both for the eyes and for the soul!
Thanks Jerry. Fire is natures way of keeping forests healthy and we’d be “helping” a lot more if we just let them burn. Of course, you can’t do that where people live, but a lot of the fires out west could just burn themselves out without doing any real damage to property.
I think you would like being on top of a mountain very much and I hope you’ll get the chance someday. It’s true that at times, it can be a very spiritual experience. If we all had more of those maybe living in peace would come easier.
Loved this post! The views and the history were so wonderful. I had no idea about the this little slice of heaven so close to home. Must climb it soon. As to the logging trails, it looks a lot like my “backyard” with the logging going on here. Not pretty until nature steps in to reclaim the land.
Thank you Martha. Mount Caesar is a nice climb. It’s hard to do any logging without tearing up the earth. Even when you use horses it is still hard on the land.
great assortment of fantastic photos combined with wonderful story!!
Thank you Eddie!
I knew what you meant, Ben. I sure wish there was a way to edit our comments!
Well, if you ever get yourself into that kind of predicament chez moi just ask and I’ll be happy to edit on your behalf. 🙂
Thanks Ben, and I’ll do the same for you.
Thank you. Do you want to fix *this* example?
Sure, I’ll fix it.
Thank you.
You’re welcome. Anytime!
Another great walk without leaving my chair, and with a helpful and knowledgeable guide too.
I do so agree with your thinking, such a loss to our knowledge treating the people who lived in a country before we Europeans arrived the way we did. I am also sorry the loggers have made such a mess of your trail.
I wish I had been with you on the top of Mt Caesar, in my mountain climbing days I always used to feel sad on the descent.
Thank you Susan. The forest and the trail will eventually heal, but I don’t think we’ll ever fully regain the knowledge that we lost with the Natives.
I’m glad that you had a chance to sit on a few mountaintops too. I agree-they’re mighty hard places to leave once you get up there.
A shame, what they did to the forest. But what a scenery at the top. And it should be natural that thoughts like this come to your mind while sitting “on the top of the world”.
We have 4.8 million acres of trees in New Hampshire so we can afford to lose a few, but loggers never seem to think about the impact their work is going to have on the surroundings. It would have been a simple matter to leave a narrow strip of forest standing for shade and a wind break.
I often think about the past when I reach the summit of mountains. When you look out over such a vast expanse of forest you begin to wonder how anyone ever found their way through it.
A wonderful climb. Your quote at the end couldn’t be any truer. Coexisting had never been one of our strong suits. There is so much we could have learned.
Thanks Laura. Scientists have barely scratched the surface when it comes to the knowledge of plants that the Natives had.